Prepare Hose in Hose (HIH) adaptors

Drill out the 3/8" compression fitting

with a 25/64 inch drill bit

to allow the 3/8 nylon hose to pass all the way through the fitting.

Hose in Hose (HIH) Routing

Create new hole for hoses to enter into passenger compartment under driver's seat. Be sure to add abrasion protection - I glued some split loom plastic in place, which works nicely.

Create second hole in channel under the left of the driver's seat. It is probably better to place the hole a little closer to the rear of the vehicle to make the bend radius of the hoses a little larger and more manageable. I also suggest making the hole larger.

This picture shows the hoses installed.

Create third hole on lower left area of back seat as shown. This hole should be a little larger for easier hose routing.



When you are ready to run the hoses, do yourself a favor and remove the hole plug located in the rear fender well. You will need to remove the rear tire so you can get your head in to look, but it is very much worth the effort!
(I learned this the hard way)

From engine compartment, follow existing metal fuel lines down under the chassis. Be sure you stay clear of the steering shaft and other parts that might rub on the hoses. I placed some split loom over the hose to get a little extra abrasion protection. [picture] I added some sheet metal to protect the hoses from road debris and keep them tight against the chassis floor.

It might be a little better to add a additional hole for hose entry into the trunk, but the shock access hole seems to work nicely.  Be careful how you route the hoses behind the back seat.  There is room right against the wheel well, but not against the back wall.  Pay attention to the hoses in the following pictures.

Do not route the hoses like shown here:

Do not route the hoses like this either:

Do route the hoses like this:

Be sure to feel around between the seat frame and the sheet metal to make sure your hoses are not getting flattened or rubbing.  The area where the wrench is located is what you need to pay attention to.



Plumbing

Coolant supply (5/8" brass tee)

Coolant return (5/8" brass tee)

Banjo Bolt at Fuel Filter

The banjo bolt located on the fuel filter is what connects the bypass from the IP, bypass from the injectors, fuel supply to the IP, and fuel return line to fuel tank. We don't want to allow the original filter to be used with VO, so we need to block off the path to the IP supply. This is the banjo connection.

And this is the bolt.

To block the undesired fuel path, fill up the banjo bolt with JB Weld. Cover the holes with tape so the epoxy doesn't ooze out.

After the epoxy sets and dries, you can remove the tape and reinstall the bolt.

Fuel Manifold

Install the fuel manifold so that the fitting that carries fuel back to the tank will be at the highest point, so that any air bubbles in the system get taken away.  

  • 1/4" hose for the IP inlet and mechanical fuel pump outlets
  • 5/16" hose for the banjo connector (which carries fuel bypassed from injectors and IP)
  • 3/8" hose for the return solenoid valve

The manifold is pretty secure with just the hoses holding it in place.  I don't think any brackets are necessary.




VO tank Wiring Interior

Priming

Coolant Hoses

The hoses in the trunk are now the highest point in the coolant system, so that is where you need to bleed out all the air. Slowly pour coolant/water into both the supply and return hoses while holding them high up in the air. You will know you completely filled the system when raising one hose a little higher than the other causes water to pour out of the lower hose.

Fuel Hoses

The nice thing about plumbing the system with a fuel return is that all you have to do to prime the fuel lines is to push the knob on the mechanical fuel pump. Do this for each position of the solenoid valves. Testing